Why 316L Stainless Steel Matters (And What Cheaper Watches Use Instead)

Every watch case looks similar in a product photo. The difference shows up two years later one still looks new, the other has already started to dull, pit, or irritate the skin.

That difference usually comes down to one number: 316L.

What 316L Actually Means

316L is a grade of stainless steel, sometimes called "surgical steel" because it's the same grade used in medical implants and surgical instruments. The "L" stands for low carbon content, which makes the metal more resistant to corrosion and less likely to crack under stress. It's also hypoallergenic, which matters for anyone who's had a cheaper watch case irritate their wrist.

What Budget Watches Use Instead

Many watches under £100 and some closer to £300 use 304 stainless steel, or in worse cases, plated base metal. 304 is a lower grade: still steel, but with less chromium and nickel stability, meaning it corrodes faster and reacts more with skin oils and sweat. Plated base metal is worse again the plating wears through, exposing the metal underneath.

316L vs 304: The Practical Difference

	316L Stainless Steel	304 Stainless Steel
Corrosion resistance	High	Moderate
Skin reactivity	Hypoallergenic	Can cause irritation
Common use	Surgical instruments, marine hardware	General consumer goods
Typical price point	£300+	Under £150
Long-term finish	Holds polish for years	Dulls and pits over time

Why This Matters for a Watch Specifically

A watch sits against skin for hours a day, in sweat, in rain, sometimes in seawater. Nowhere else on a piece of jewellery does metal grade matter more. A ring rarely gets wet. A watch does, constantly. This is why 316L is the standard among watchmakers who build for decades of wear rather than a single season.

Every Tomell London watch is built on a 316L stainless steel case, paired with sapphire crystal glass and Japanese quartz movement the same combination used well above our price point, at a price point most brands reserve for lower-grade steel.

Frequently Asked Questions

Will 316L steel ever rust?
Under normal wear, no. It's highly corrosion-resistant, though no steel is entirely immune to damage from harsh chemicals or prolonged salt exposure without care.

Is 316L the same steel used in luxury watches?
Yes 316L (or the equivalent 316LVM in some higher-end pieces) is the industry standard among watchmakers who prioritise durability, from mid-range microbrands through to established luxury houses.

How can I tell what steel grade my watch uses?
Reputable brands state it directly in the product specification. If a listing doesn't mention the steel grade at all, that's usually a sign it isn't 316L.

Does 316L steel need special care?
No more than any other stainless steel a wipe-down after exposure to sweat or salt water keeps it looking new indefinitely.